Muffler Work

When I got the van home from Reno, the muffler had broken and was hanging by a coat hanger. Part of this is because the muffler support was not doing a good job of supporting it.

Since the engine was burning so much oil, I decided that I needed to replace the catalytic converter and oxygen sensor at the same time.

I asked the moderator of the Yahoo Subaru Vanagon group for muffler advice, having seen a picture of what he had done in 2001 [before he went to one of those fancy stainless steel muffler systems that is far outside of my budget]. He told me he used a Walker Dynomax 17741 muffler with a generic catalytic converter that also used the 2.25" sized pipe.

The Walker Dynomax 17741 is used by several mid-90s Chrysler products, so I figure that muffler will be made for a while. Its round shape, with offset in/out holes means I can swivel it to install it in whatever position it fits best.



Same for the generic Walker 15032 catalytic converter [and the generic oxygen sensor]. It's a standard size and can be replaced as needed.



The flange [upstream from the catalytic converter] is for a slightly smaller diameter pipe than used for the catalytic converter and Muffler. My friend Darryl [Who's staying with Kevin in Colorado Springs for a while] will weld it up and mail it to me, I'll ask if he wants cash or costs plus a case of good beer.

Installing the Oil Pan

The oil pan that came with the replacement Subaru engine was a stock oil pan, which if installed in a Vanagon would give only 5.5 inches / 14cm of ground clearance, resulting like this:



Luckily, the Vanagon's engine came with a shortened oilpan [a $250-$400 item] that nearly doubles the ground clearance. The builder [a guy named Leon Korkin] added extra space towards the front of the engine to retain the original oil capacity [the black hole makes it possible to get to the front center oil pan bolt]. Having a shortened oil pan is a must for off-road driving.

Notice the difference between the shortened oil pan at left and stock oil pan at right. The black hole in the shortened oil pan makes it possible to get to the front center oil pan bolt.



The shortened oil pan was still on the engine we removed, so we lifted the engine and put it between two sawhorses, so we could drain the oil and pull the oil pan off. Man, it was filthy inside; considering the 11 quarts of oil I put in the engine while driving back from Reno, I wouldn't have figured that. The more I see this engine's condition, the more I am grateful it lasted long enough to get me home. I scrubbed oil pan with water-based degreaser, then brought it to the car wash to blast off all of the remaining grime. I finished by applying a few coats of high-heat gloss black engine enamel.

Before installing the oil pan, I needed to remove the sheet of thick plastic and 3/4 inch plywood that covered the engine's oil gallery [the area normally covered by the oil pan] to make it easier to lift the engine with the jack. I removed the wood/plastic, and saw that it had done a superb job keeping the oil gallery clean.

Since where I live is usually pretty windy, I waited for a calm day to remove the plastic/plywood cover. I installed the oil baffle and oil pickup tube, then installed the oil pan using Great Stuff grey sealant. The bright aluminum part with the barbed brass fitting is the thermostat housing designed by Tom Shiels of Subaruvanagon.com. The thermostat housing allows hot water from the engine to continuously flow through the thermostat area. This prevents the potential overheating conditions when freshly-cooled water [returning from the front and rear passenger area heaters] comes too close to the thermostat and causes it to close.



After installing the oil pan and filling it with oil, I decided to pump some oil throughout the engine, to reduce engine wear when the engine is started for the first time. Turning the crankshaft would cause the oil pump to suck oil up from the oil pan and push it through the oil passages.....all at low speed when the engine is not under load.

I removed the spark plugs, then put a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. At first I used a hand rachet, but because of space restraints could not swing it in a complete circle. I decided that my air ratchet would be better because it would provide a more consistent rate of speed. The air ratchet [not designed as a high-torque tool] managed to turn the crankshaft pulley at about 100 RPM for about 30 seconds, so I did this three times. That should have provided a good supply of oil to the oil gallery passages, including the upper end components like camshafts, etc.

New fuel filter and fuel line

When Volkswagen designed the Syncro model of the Vanagon, they put the fuel filter in the most inaccessible spot imaginable. It's mounted behind a solid steel shock tower in the left rear wheelwell.

There is no way you can see to work on it, you have to do it by 'feel'....loosening a [rusted] phillps head screw to free it from the bracket, then finding the tiny slots on the fuel line clamps to remove the fuel lines. Since it's mounted sideways, you're guaranteed a fuel bath when you loosen the hose clamps. All this does is discourage people from changing the fuel filter on a regular basis....not a good thing!

So, I'm changing the fuel filter location, to a very accessible spot in the right rear engine compartment. Also, I'm changing it to use the same fuel filter as my '96 Subaru wagon [thus fewer unique parts to stock].



The Subaru fuel filter is held in place by a spring-loaded bracket in the engine compartment, making it easy to change. And, since both the fuel inlet and outlet tubes are on the top of the filter, it will be easy to change without spilling fuel.



The fuel lines look OK, but I think they are original and thus more than 23 years old. Replacing them now is a very small price to pay for safety!

Coolant manifold wiring problem

Before installing the intake manifold, I learned that reversing the coolant manifold meant that its two sensors were now in a different location and thus the wires connecting them were too short. Luckily, I found some wires with the same color/patterns and was able to add enough wire to make them reach.

Filthy intake manifold - Making new air filter assembly

When I removed the intake manifold from the existing engine...I saw that it was FILTHY inside. First, there was a lot of oil, obviously blowby that was sucked into the manifold by the breather tubes. Second, it was covered with dirt, some mixed with the oil to form grit. It's obvious that the shop vac air filter held on by a shoestring put on by someone else obviously did a very poor job of filtering. This makes me really glad I'm changing the motor....and that it got me all the way back home.

I seriously considered using the [very clean] intake manifold from the replacement engine, but being a JDM [Japanese Domestic Market] engine, it didn't have one of the sensors, so I needed to use the original engine's intake manifold. To scrub it clean, I used a bottle brush with a water-based degreaser, then brought the manifold to the local car wash and used the high pressure rinse to blast it clean.

Considering I needed to design a better air filter setup. When I discovered that the outside diameter of the airflow meter tube was 3", I realized that this would be an inexpensive solution. All I would need to do is cut off the square flange on the output side of the tube, and mount a 3" K&N filter to it.



At the self-service wrecking yard, the airflow meter tube [without the sensor] cost $5. the K&N filter cost $30. Total cost: $35 for setup which will work 1000 times better than the one on it.